If we thought getting to Caye Caulker was unbearable, then nothing could’ve prepared us for the arduous journey to Tikal. Spending hours on a crammed water-taxi was a walk in the park compared to our wait to cross the Guatemalan border. We tacked on to the lengthy queue in the sweltering heat, gradually shuffling forward as each traveller ahead of us passed through immigration. With our passports stamped and now feeling sufficiently drenched in sweat, we hurried back to our coach where we were greeted by the cool breeze of the air-con like an old friend. Another long day of travel was finally met with our arrival at Tikal’s jungle lodge, much to our relief. Our thirst was immediately quenched by the welcome beverages provided – a tropical fruit-flavoured concoction. After a quick debriefing, we were assigned our room keys. Miriam and I followed the winding, bumpy path to our lodgings. We scoured our cabin upon entry for unwanted guests, our eyes tracing every surface with caution. No pillow, blanket or towel was left unturned. Once we were satisfied that we were in the clear, Miriam decided to wander over to the pool while I opted for a much needed shower. The bathroom was immaculate. With a generous sized shower, the fluffiest of white towels and what looked to be my favourite bar of complimentary soap to date, I knew I was in for a treat. That was, until, I decided to look up. On one of the exposed beams running across the ceiling, I spotted a scorpion, camouflaged against the deep colour of the wood. It remained still as I debated whether or not I could bring myself to shower in its presence. Struck with fear, I sat on the end of my bed with my head in my hands and pondered my options: seek help or leave the country? Luckily, Miriam soon returned before I had the chance to really consider the latter. She seemed surprised that I had been in and out of the bathroom so quickly. Unfortunately, I had to break the news that my sitting on the bed was not the result of efficient shower habits but rather due to the fact that I had looked death in the eye and assumed that my fate was sealed. Thankfully we were rescued by a stick-wielding member of staff from the lodge who was able to provoke the scorpion to leave through a hole in the roof by jabbing it incessantly. Miriam and I were both a little apprehensive to be left alone in the bathroom following the incident, so we acted as one another’s guardians as we took turns showering. Keeping a watchful eye on any sign of movement in the bathroom using our iPhone flashlights became a hilarious bonding experience for the two of us. Needless to say, it was a rather sleepless night given that we were staying in the heart of the jungle. The shared glass of red wine before bed did little to relieve our anxiety. Each time we felt as though we were about to drift off, a rustle from outside would heighten our senses. Fortunately, we only had a few hours to pass until we had to be up. Our group met at 4am in the morning before we began our trek into the jungle. Now all we had to mindful of were the tarantulas, snakes, and perhaps the odd cougar. Considering my earlier encounter with a scorpion, I felt as though I could now handle anything that nature might throw at me (just call me Bear Grylls). We managed to avoid any immediate contact with the jungle’s residents as we treaded with caution in the dark. The odd torch light would reveal segments of the temples we found ourselves walking around. For a bunch of sleep-deprived travellers, we were up early to do more than find our way around the ruins in the dark. We were here to watch the sunrise from one of the highest vantage points that Tikal could offer. A set of wooden stairs had been built to allow access to the top of one of the taller temples on site. We climbed up and sat in rows along the stone steps like an audience on the bleachers quietly anticipating the start of an event. I can’t quite describe what it was like to sit in silence and witness the diffusion of light over the thick canopy of trees before us. None of us dared to disrupt the moment by speaking; anyone who did received scathing looks from other onlookers who were here to experience complete tranquillity. As night became day, we watched in awe as the jungle came to life. Colourful birds spread their wings and soared over tree tops while monkeys swung through the branches effortlessly. There was no question that we were privileged to be watching the show that nature was putting on for us. The rest of the morning was spent exploring Tikal at our own pace, from treading through the jungle, to climbing the ruins. There was plenty of wildlife to be observed too; a few were fortunate enough to spot some toucans. By mid-morning, we were ready to head back to the lodge and pack our things; we would soon be moving on to our next destination. There were a number of memorable moments from this trip, but that of vision of the sun rising over Tikal will never fade from my mind.
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B is:A 26-year-old tea drinking writer of words trying to find her place in the world.
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April 2020
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